U.S. designers lag European labels in wooing China

NEW YORK (Reuters) - China is in fashion for top U.S. designers as they look to tap the world's fastest-growing luxury goods market amid a slow economic recovery at home, but critics say they have lagged their European rivals in seeing the Asian giant's potential.

Among Chinese consumers the top five brands for the past two years were all European -- Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Gucci, Dior and Armani -- according to Bain and Co, which estimates China's luxury good sales grew by up to 30 percent in 2011.

"American designers are slow to recognize the Asian market because they have such a big home market," said David Wolfe, creative director of trend forecasting firm The Doneger Group. He was speaking ahead of New York Fashion Week, which started on Thursday.

But that home market has struggled with economic uncertainty and while the U.S. luxury goods market -- still the largest in the world ahead of Japan and China -- improved last year, Bain and Co predicts it grew at about a third of China's rate.

"Given the world economy and the way things are trending and the opportunities over there, it would be foolish for an American designer to ignore the Chinese market," said James Mischka, one half of design duo Badgley Mischka.

"It's an established market that we're ... trying to crack," he said. Badgley Mischka plans to greatly expand in China in the next five years by opening dozens of stores.

China will account for 20 percent of the global luxury market by 2015, with spending in the country nearly tripling to $27 billion by that year from around $10 billion in 2009, according to consulting firm McKinsey & Co.

"A lot of American brands are coming in later, a lot of American brands are not in China yet," said Veronica Chou, president of Iconix China, which has so far brought seven of its U.S. brands, including Badgley Mischka, to China.

"The American consumer market is so big, and brands are so happy here, their balance sheets are so good. If they go to China it's a huge investment, it takes a lot of time," she said.

GROWTH ENGINE

U.S. designer Donna Karan opened her first store in China in 2006 and now has 40 throughout the country with comparable store growth of up to 30 percent year on year, said Paul Kotrba, vice president of international sales and business development.

He said the Chinese customer had "become a considerable growth engine for our brand."

Karan said that without taking away from the spirit of her clothes, she adjusts them in terms of size, color and design to meet the needs of the Asian consumer.

"Interestingly, the more fashion forward parts of our collections speak especially well to our Chinese customers," said Karan, who in September had several Chinese actresses attend her New York Fashion Week show.

Designer Michael Kors' 30-year old company, which recently listed on the New York Stock Exchange, has just a handful of stores in China and six months ago appointed a greater China chief executive in a sign it plans to expand its presence.

Kors said that Chinese consumers were shifting from designer logo or statement pieces -- items that made clear what label they were wearing -- to more understated, yet indulgent pieces.

"Luxury clients worldwide now have more in common than not ... they want fashion that is as well-made, chic and wearable in Shanghai as they are in Paris or New York," said Kors, also a judge on reality competition "Project Runway."

Experts expect a strong Chinese presence of media and buyers at New York Fashion Week where some 90 designers are showing their fall 2012 collections.

LUCKY RED

But some changes have to be made to cater to the Chinese market, said Patricia Pao, of Pao Principle consulting firm, such as including more red in a collection as it is considered a lucky color in China.

"Chinese need smaller sizes geared for their body type. One of the reasons why the Versace collection for H&M was not successful in China is because it didn't fit the Chinese woman," Pao said. "Chinese women like more embellished clothing which makes it very challenging for minimalist brands such as Prada."

China is now home to the second most billionaires in the world, behind the United States, according to Forbes. A booming housing market has helped drive explosive growth in China's economy in recent years, but Beijing has tried to cool prices in hopes of avoiding a devastating bubble and bust.

"I don't know any brands that are not discussing the dynamic growth of luxury consumption in that part of the world," said Alison Loehnis, managing director of luxury online retailer Net-a-Porter.

Ralph Lauren said on Wednesday it was going to focus on opening higher end stores in China. Chief Operating Officer Roger Farah called China's emerging middle class "the world's most important luxury customers."

Robert Burke, of Robert Burke Associates luxury consultants, said that the top European labels had invested heavily to achieve their popularity in China and that top U.S. designers would need to follow suit.

"Big works in China. Big sells. Big retail stores, big events, a big splash, it works there," Burke said.

"That being said there is an interest from a younger Chinese consumer for designers like Philip Lim, Jason Wu and Thakoon. We are seeing a younger customer having a real interest in emerging designers," Burke said.

Jason Wu, best known for creating U.S. first lady Michelle Obama's inaugural ball gown, sells his collections to luxury Chinese department store chain Lane Crawford.

"It's a really amazing market," he said. "I'm definitely increasing my international presence and China is definitely an important part of that."

(Additional reporting by Phil Wahba; Editing by Vicki Allen)

Yes sir! Fashion Week trends going military

NEW YORK (AP) — Fashion's top brass seems to like the military look for next fall. Three days into the seasonal previews at New York Fashion Week Saturday, styles for the urban battlefield have emerged as a trend.

Prabal Gurung, one of Michelle Obama's favorite designers, opened his show with a sharp black cape — with a black patent-leather tank peeking out — and black neoprene molded trousers. The outfit oozed strength but it wasn't overly tough, either.

It was a similar story at the Rag & Bone and Jason Wu shows a day earlier, which both took traditional military touches, including strong shoulders, epaulets, grommets and big buttons, and put them through a feminine filter. Meanwhile, Tommy Hilfiger described his new men's collection as "an academy look that is sophisticated, modern, a touch rebellious but buttoned up." In the notes from Friday's show he called the line "a personalized take on military precision."

"Maybe there's some subconscious thing with the troops coming out of Iraq," said Joanna Coles, editor-in-chief of Marie Claire. "There is a more positive spin on military, much more so than when we saw military after 9/11."

The look is a good one for consumers, she said. "Military is easy to wear. It smartens your outfit, chic-ifies outerwear and it's a good color range of neutrals that are flattering."

Coles added, "The military is a well-oiled machine and military clothes reflect that. There's organization and no room for doubt."

But there's a broad range of styles that tap into the trend, from crisp dress clothes inspired by officers to the more hipster interpretation of the urban warrior.

Gurung said his strong runway designs were more to make a statement and tell a story than some of his other looks for fall, which he described as "more wearable and sportswear-driven." He said he didn't have the first lady in mind when he conceived of the collection, adding, "I do hope she's going to like something. But it's more her effect has tremendous positive impact on my business."

Saturday evening shows were to include Christian Siriano, who's zoomed to success since his 2008 win on the "Project Runway" TV show at age 22.

PRABAL GURUNG

Prabal Gurung offered sharp, edgy black outfits with strong silhouettes, slashed sleeves and high-gloss patent leather and ended with Oscars-worthy white gown gowns with feathers and gold lame. Somewhere in between, he fit in blouses and dresses in a recurring print of a steer's skull that sounds scary but was subtle and truly lovely.

Gurung created hourglass shapes with sheer panels on models who sometimes looked like beanpoles. Some garments were molded to define silhouettes without making them clingy.

Trousers were narrow but with boot-leg bottoms. Chic coats were also long and lean.

He experimented with mixed textures, offering a patent leather coat embroidered with sheared mink loops, fox fur and tiers of goat hair, and on the other end of the spectrum, a white cocktail dress with a panel of gold tinsel and another of lame.

A red carpet-ready black gown featured sheer tulle covered in beads and crystals.

JILL STUART

The second outfit to come down Jill Stuart's runway, a gold leaf-embroidered T-shirt paired with black sailor pants, is headed straight to the designer's closet.

She had it earmarked for her wardrobe even before she debuted her fall collection.

Some dresses had flippy, flouncy hemlines and others had a schoolgirl jumper silhouette, adding moments of levity to the catwalk, but the emphasis seemed to be on the sharply defined shoulders, high necklines and the occasion panel of suggestive sheer fabric.

Many of the prints and embroideries featured a floral motif, but there was nothing flowery about black roses on stark winter white backgrounds or prints that seemed to paint a picture of a garden in the dark. This collection showed a more serious side to Stuart.

RACHEL ZOE

Rachel Zoe has that old-school, rock-star girlfriend thing down. Zoe, best known as a celebrity stylist, flaunted the signature look that made her famous with a parade of faux fur coats, skinny-style tuxedos, maxi dresses and thigh-high boots that you imagine the young jet-set wearing as they shuttle from London to Los Angeles — perhaps with a stop in New York. They're for the type of woman who can pull off gaucho pants, which were indeed part of the lineup.

She said in her notes she drew inspiration "from the rock and roll glamour of London in the late '60s and such fashion icons as Marianne Faithfull and Mick Jagger."

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AP radio correspondent Julie Walker contributed to this report.

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Zac Posen at Fashion Week looks to Asian culture

NEW YORK (AP) — Did Zac Posen spend a sabbatical in the Orient?

The designer's runway show Sunday at New York Fashion Week was filled with references — both allusive and obvious — to Asian culture for his fall line.

Looks were paired with printed obi belts in a collection rich with jewel tones of dark red, emerald green, shiny gold and deep navy. Red and black large peony blossoms popped on a jacquard dress and separates, a folded lapel jacket and pencil skirt. The models wore their hair in sleek, slicked back buns with heavily lined eyes.

Posen featured a series of his signature, sexy gowns, some with kimono-like wide, draped sleeves. Nearly all the pieces shown in the Lincoln Center tents where Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week is held had mermaid or fishtail hemlines, with fabric flowing and gathering at the model's knees and feet.

Don't be surprised to see these silhouettes popping up on red carpets during this awards season. Posen is a favorite in Hollywood, recently dressing model Elle Macpherson in a strapless, tiered ivory gown for the Golden Globes and actress Glenn Close in a black, taffeta-and-tulle gown for the Screen Actors Guild awards — and the Oscars are just a few weeks away.

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Rebecca Taylor at Fashion Week: Leggings, leather

NEW YORK (AP) — Shifts and shirtdresses, leather and leggings marked Rebecca Taylor's fall collection, shown Friday at New York Fashion Week.

"I wanted a girl to feel very richly textured and layered and autumnal," Taylor said backstage after the runway show, wearing a shirtdress. "I wanted it to feel romantic."

Leggings were studded, made with pieced leather and sheer chiffon. Taylor played with python prints in blue and orange for sleeveless dresses.

She also found inspiration in sequins and glitter, using the shapes to create prints for dresses. Her leather jackets were quilted in shades of gray and purple. Other jackets had long leather fringe.

Models wore their hair in loose fishtails and looks were paired with chunky, furry high-heeled boots in the show held during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week at Lincoln Center.

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Tommy Hilfiger menswear: Military and sports looks

NEW YORK (AP) — Tommy Hilfiger told the story of a young cadet's military and sport lifestyle in his fall men's collection that debuted Friday during New York Fashion Week.

"It is an academy look that is sophisticated, modern, a touch rebellious but buttoned up," he said. The show's notes called the line "a personalized take on military precision."

The military theme ran through nearly every piece, from four stripes at the wrist cuffs of coats to peacoats with chain embroidery. Zippers detailed the thighs of skinny pants and collars flipped up to reveal leather. Quilted leather was used in gloves and on the sleeves of jackets. Patches were on the inside of elbows, not the usual outside.

There were even smaller touches too. Hilfiger showed a few turtlenecks, but one model wore a small buckled belt around his neck outside the sweater like a choker necklace.

Colors were rich autumn tones of burgundy, navy, olive and grey.

Hilfiger's runway show was as painstakingly put together as the clothes in his line. His team transformed an armory in Manhattan into a garden with a brick path runway, street lights, trees and ivy-covered walls. The show started with the rhythm of military marching band drums. Actor Bradley Cooper, People magazine's sexiest man alive, and Super Bowl champion New York Giants wide receiver Victor Cruz both were there.

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Imperial China stirs Jason Wu at New York fashion week

Designer Jason Wu brought the mystery of the Forbidden City to New York fashion week with a fall-winter collection inspired by his Chinese heritage and 1930s Hollywood glamor.

Born in Taiwan and raised in Canada and the United States, 29-year-old Wu famously designed the gown First Lady Michelle Obama wore to the January 2009 balls that accompanied the inauguration of her husband Barack Obama as president.

But his collection on day two of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week reflected a growing personal interest in his Chinese roots, with a touch of Marlene Dietrich in "Shanghai Express" thrown in for good measure.

He credited a voyage of discovery back to Asia with his father 18 months ago for stirring his imagination.

"I was born Chinese, but I had not been back in my country for so long," he told AFP backstage.

"My dad took me to see an exhibit on the Chinese Qing Dynasty warriors and I was so taken by the subject that I thought it was important for me to go back to my roots," he added.

The result: a collection that wraps up "my answer to what is Chinese."

Unmistakable in Wu's looks as they emerged from huge Oriental palace doors was the slim sleek silhouette of the cheung sam, with stiff half-collars and teardrop necklines, in scarlet, blood red or charcoal black hues.

Four-pocket shirt jackets harked back to the relatively more recent Mao jacket, contributing to Wu's vision of an invincible warrior woman.

"These are different interpretations of China," he said, "all very strong, all very fierce -- we knitted them together like a cinematic experience."

In other shows Friday, Michael and Nicole Colovos for Helmut Lang built upon the label's return to the runway last season with a very urban parade of peaked shoulders and pinched waists -- but it was the boots that had people talking.

Grey, black or floral wedge boots, often boldly thigh-high, stood among in nearly all of the 40 razor-sharp looks the designer couple set out via a mirrored ramp in a converted warehouse in the SoHo section of Manhattan.

Earlier, New Zealand's Rebecca Taylor, a favorite of "Sex and the City" star Sarah Jessica Parker, made good use of shearling, quilted Bordeaux leather and "beautiful digitalized prints" -- her words -- for her 40-look collection.

"We were looking at a lot of layers, a lot of textures," Taylor told reporters backstage. Her herringbone coats and stovepipe jeans in particular recalled the heyday of 1980s New Wave vintage style.

For evening wear, highlights included python-print halter dresses that Taylor matched with shoes and accessories of her own design, in a well-received show set to the beat of the Skatt Brothers' 1979 dance-floor tune "Walk the Night."

In what's becoming a regular fixture in New York, South Korea's culture ministry and fashion research institute hosted fresh designs from Doho, Lie Sang Bong, Resurrection by Joyoung, Song Jung Wan, and Steve J and Yoni P.

Fans packed the late-morning Concept Korea presentation, although it was hard for a caring soul not to feel for the models who bravely endured a full hour in static poses on terraced platforms in precariously high heels.

Moving on from their floral designs of last season, Steve J and Yoni P came up with a whimsical starburst design that fell into place as easily in sheer lace as it did in knitwear.

"It makes our collection more fun and more young, said Yoni Pai, whose creative partnership with Steve Jong -- forged during their fashion school days in London a decade ago -- has only grown since they married two years ago.

Diane von Furstenberg at NY Fashion Week

NEW YORK (AP) — Diane von Furstenberg let the crowd attending New York Fashion Week in on a little secret Sunday: Fashion is a puzzle.

Von Furstenberg, who, as president of the Council of Fashion Designers of America is the de facto leader of the American fashion community, used jigsaw puzzle pieces as a prominent theme of her fall collection, presented to a packed house that included her personal friends Oscar de la Renta, Anderson Cooper, Diane Sawyer and Barbara Walters. There was a puzzle print on a pink sleeveless dress, and laser-cut pieces on a black embellished one. A model carried a puzzle-box bag.

She described her muse of the season in her notes: "With a heightened awareness to the promise of places she has not yet been, people she has not met yet, she wraps herself in layers of opposing dimensions, ready for anything. Practiced in the art of innuendo. she commands sleek silhouettes with sheer accents cut to reveal just enough."

Von Furstenberg alternated between sophisticated, simple and sometimes smoldering jersey dresses in dark colors and fun cocktail numbers in bright, almost tropical shades of pink, lime green and bright blue. It was a palate cleanser for the palette of black, gray, dark green and deep purple that's been served for four days to editors, stylists and retailers at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.

"This collection is called 'Rendezvous,'" von Furstenberg explained before the show. "It's all about loving to be a woman. It's about seduction. It is bold. It is daring. It is strong, but it has humor. It's all about liking your body, and at the same time with big coats, so it's the yin and the yang."

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Associated Press Writer John Carucci contributed to this report.